1. Assemble 18 cannon carriages from the laser cut 5/32S´ (4mm) marine ply parts. These parts are meant to fit loosely together. Glue with wood glue. Position the rear wedge so it supports the barrel. If you want to pin the cannon to the deck, drill holes through the two cross pieces. Use a jig for consistency. Pins should be made from 1/16S´ (1.6mm) brass rod. Paint dirty dark brown. Glue on wheels. Paint cannon barrels black and glue on. Glue to deck using isocyanacrylate on wheels or pins. See plan B and attached sketch.

2. Three deck hatches:

   1. The fore hatch is assembled from the 1/4" (6.35mm) wood pieces: 2 sides and 4 cross pieces, the birch strip wood 1/8" x 1/8" (3.2 x 3.2mm), the hatch grating and the backing plate (plan A). Cut three pieces of the grating to the size shown. Paint the top a wood brown. On a flat surface, glue, using wood glue, two cross pieces inside, and at the end of, the side pieces using the plan as a positioning guide. The tops should be flush. Sand the top outer edge of the side pieces until the curve of the cross pieces is continued outward across them, all the way along. Cut 2 lengths of 1/8' x 1/8" (3.2 x 3.2mm) strip wood to the same length as the side pieces and glue them to the top, flush with the outside edges. Cut more strip wood to bend across the four cross pieces, in between the side strips, and clamp and glue on, flush with the outside or centered, respectively. Lay these in and check the evenly spaced fit of all three gratings. Paint the assembly black. Cut (with a knife or scissors) and glue the backing plates in so as to make the deck invisible when you look through the top and glue the gratings in with isocyanacrylate. Cut away the port and starboard corners of the foremost grating as shown on plan A to allow the anchor cable to terminate within. If you want to pin the hatch to the deck, drill 2 1/16S´ (1.6mm) holes, centered at each end (use a jig), otherwise just glue to the deck in the position shown.

   2. The main hatch is similar to the fore hatch. One difference is that after you have cut the grating you will need to sand a bit off the fore and aft edges to make it fit.

   3. The companionway/light is assembled from the 1/4" (6.35mm) wood pieces: 2 sides, 2 walls and 5 cross pieces, the birch strip wood 1/8" x 1/8" (3.2 x 3.2mm), the 5/32" (4mm) marine ply companionway roof and the black plastic light rails. On a flat surface, glue, using wood glue, two of the cross pieces at the end of the side pieces. Make sure you get the port (lower) and starboard side pieces the right way around. The tops should be flush at the ends. Glue the two companionway walls to line up with the ends of the vertical edges in the middle of the side pieces. These should all be flush on top. Glue the roof piece on, overlapping the edges equally; round the edges. Glue two cross pieces against the companionway cross walls, and the last cross piece exactly halfway between the aft two cross pieces. Sand the top outer edge of the side pieces until the curve of the end cross pieces is continued outward across them, all the way along the lower surface. Cut lengths of 1/8' x 1/8" (3.2 x 3.2mm) strip wood and attach it as for the other hatches. Paint the assembly black. Cut the light railings to size and glue in with isocyanacrylate; cut and glue in the backing plates. If you want to pin the hatch to the deck, drill 2 1/16S´ (1.6mm) holes, centered at each end (use a jig), otherwise just glue to the deck in the position shown.

3. The wheel:

   The wheel base is made up of three pieces of 1/8" x 3/8" (3.2 x 9.5mm) beech, cut to length and angled as shown on Plan A and B, drilled and glued together with wood glue. Drill the two uprights for the 1/8S´ (3.2mm) wheel axle and the base for a pin if you intend to pin it to the deck. The wheel drum is cut from 2 sizes of birch dowel and drilled for the 1/8" (3.2mm) brass rod wheel axle. Drum and frame can be sealed, stained and sealed, or painted black. The pre-cut black ABS wheel and the drum you just made are placed between the uprights and the axle pushed through. It should be cut flush fore and aft and held in place with a drop of isocyanacrylate. Attach to the deck as above.

4. The bitts:
   1. The bowsprit bitts: cut the 2 uprights to length (see plan B) from 5/16S´ x 5/16S´ (7.9 x 7.9mm) birch. Cut the cross piece to length and chisel out 2 1/32S´ (0.8mm) deep mortises to accept the uprights. Angle the tops of the uprights as you did the knightheads. Assemble the backstop, the aft receiving plate and the fore receiving plate (5/32S´ (4mm) marine plywood) to the uprights and cross piece. Glue with wood glue. Glue on the support knees (1/4S´ (6.35mm) wood). Drill for pins if you are to use them (strongly recommended for this particular piece) and glue to the deck.

   2. The anchor bitts: as above, but using 3/8S´ x 3/8S´ (9.5 x 9.5mm) birch, rounding the aft end of the cross piece and without the backstop or receiving plates. Check for squareness before gluing.

   3. The two gallows bitts: cut the two uprights for each of 5/16S´ x 5/16S´ (7.9 x 7.9mm) birch and the cross pieces of 3/8S´ x 3/8S´ (9.5 x 9.5mm) to length and glue together. Check for squareness.

   4. The mainmast bitts: as with the anchor bitts above.

5. The ship's boat:

   This is stored upside down on the gallows bitts, secured by rubber bands. It can be painted blue, with a 1/4S´ (6.35mm) black trim around the gunwale, created by masking off the latter before painting, with 1/4S´ (6.35mm) wide masking tape (available at graphic art stores). If you are keen on detail work this is a good piece to exercice your abilities on by building the interior of the boat and storing it upright - it will display your skills beautifully.

6. The anchors:

   The two large anchors consist of cast stocks and shanks/arms and a metal ring, to which is seized a piece of the heaviest cable. The two smaller anchors are similar but you use brass rod for the stock. Put a 90Á sharp bend in 1/8S´ (3.2mm) diameter brass rod and cut to 5 3/8S´ (136.5mm) on one side of the bend and 3/8S´ (9.5mm) on the other. Paint black and glue, centered, into the shank with the short bend facing down. Drill the shanks if required. Clean any residual flash off the castings, make sure they fit together, and glue them. Paint the rings black (or color them black with permanent marker), and fit them. Paint the entire anchors black. Neatly cut two 36S´ (1m)and two 12" (300mm) long pieces of the heaviest cable. The shorter pieces are for the smaller anchor. Form a loop around each anchor ring and slip on a 1/2S´ (13mm) piece of 1/4S´ (6.35mm) id shrink tubing. Using the cooler shank of a soldering iron, shrink this evenly down onto the cable as shown. Color the central white core of the cable with a black permanent ink marker pen. The large anchors are attached with a small rubber band around the inboard arm and first slot in the fore channels, and another around the stock and the aftermost knighthead. The cable from these heavy anchors is run in through either hawsehole and around the anchor bitts, see attached sketch, and into the hole in the grating of the fore hatch, where it is cut to the correct length and glued with isocyanacrylate. The cable from the small anchors is knotted just inside the hawsehole (out of sight). The small anchors can be stored anywhere you see fit. We don‰t normally put ours on for sailing, as they‰re just another hook to get caught. You can ensure that the cables "hang" properly by brushing on matte varnish or wood glue and holding them in the correct loop as they harden. The cables should run so as not to foul each other if an anchor was let go.

7. Making the chains:

   See plan E. The 20 main and fore chains are made from 5.82S´ (148mm) long pieces of 0.080S´ (2mm) ř brass wire. With reference to the diagram on the plan E make the first bend in the wire at 45Á where the stub end bends out to go around the deadeye. Make a bending jig from a piece of scrap wood. Drill 2 holes as per the diagram and insert the supplied steel pins.. Place the wire at the 45Á bend between the 2 pins and continue to form it around the 3/8S´ (9.5mm) pin until you cross over the initial bend. Force the wire on top of the initial bend in the gap between the 2 pins. Put the deadeye in the loop you have formed and close it. We solder the stub end to the main shaft using a propane torch and soft silver-bearing solder (use a heat sink (wet cloth) before the heat can reach the deadeye!). It could be glued with epoxy or just left as it is. The lower end needs to be flattened using a hammer. As the metal spreads out keep it under control by turning it 90Á and tapping the wider parts back. When you have a simulacrum of the shape, file it even and drill the 2 0.080S´ (2mm) bolt holes. Bend the chains to correspond to the athwartship profile. The brass should be blacked with brass blacking or with permanent marker pen.
   The 8 backstay chains can be made in the same way, but using the .0625S´ (1.6mm) brass rod, and without the deadeye, just leaving the ring to loop the backstay tensioning tie through. These will exert pull, and so the stub end must be soldered to the main length of the chains.

8. The capstan:

   This is made up of the six radial pieces and base plate of 1/8S´ birch, a piece of 1/4S´ birch dowel cut to length and the birch driving ring and cap. Assemble with wood glue as shown on plan B. Pin or glue to deck.

Follow these instructions in order. The earlier notes contain lessons and procedures that may need to be applied to the later assemblies. In general the masts are to be sealed with a clear (varnish/polyurethane) finish. The yards can be painted black. Before you start you need to understand how the masts are decommissioned for transport: the two lower masts pivot backward; the entire bowsprit and jibboom assembly unplugs; the main topmast (with the main cap and a piece of the mainmast), the main topmast and pole topgallant mast assembly unplugs; the fore topgallant pole mast has its royal top section unscrew. The lowest sections of the masts fit over the mast step plates inside the hull and are held in the correct place with pins cut from 1/8S´ (3.2mm) wood dowel. The lower masts are sealed to the deck with silicone seal.

1. Three part mainmast: this is finished for you except for the cross holes. All in 1S´ (25.4mm) hardwood dowel. Drill the holes and attach the hardware noted - you will need to do this for every spar. Trueness to the athwartships and fore and aft directions are quite important. Reference lines can be drawn on the mast by lying it on its side, and running a pencil along it in the correct place. Cut and bend the 1/8S´ (3.2mm) brass rod pieces for the yard trusses and glue into the masts using isocyanacrylate. Emplace the supplied polypropylene lower truss stop pieces (these may need to have their internal holes enlarged a little, but do not make them loose - they should be a jam fit) and seat the mast on its step in the upright and assembled position.

2. Two part foremast: This is the same as the three piece lower mainmast, except that it is all in 7/8S´ (22.2mm) and there is no separate upper piece or 3/8S´ (9.5mm) brass connecting pin. Follow the same procedure.

3. The bowsprit: This too is in 7/8S´ (22.2mm), just one piece. Drill a hole, cut and glue in an 1/8S´ (3.2mm) brass pin, as shown, in the lower end. The mainstay attaches to a large cable tie around the bowsprit, held from slipping aft by the cutout in the bowsprit rest. This cable tie needs to pass through the raised deck, and for this, cut 2 1/4S´ (6.35mm) wide slots in the foredeck as shown on plan A. These can be cut by drilling the end of the slots first, then sawing from one to the other. Loop a large cable tie through the two slots, slide the bowsprit through the hole at the top of the stem, through the loop formed by the cable tie and into the bowsprit bitts. Thread and tighten the cable tie till you have a loop above deck, when the lower loop is pulled against the bowsprit, of 3/4S´ (19mm) length. Cut off the excess. Assemble the gammoning: it is made of two large cable ties of roughly equal length loops. The lower one through the slot in the head and around the lower rail, joining in the space between the rails, is left on permanently. The upper one which loops over the bowsprit and interlocks with this one (pull tight), is the one that is cut each time for decommissioning.

These are glued together with wood glue, actually on their respective masts, from the laser cut ply 1/4S´ (6.35mm) platforms, the 2 1/4S´ (6.35mm) wood trestletree/cheek combination, the 2 crosstrees from 1/4S´ x 1/4S´ (6.35 x 6.35mm) wood stock, and the 1/8S´ (3.2mm) CNC cut black ABS filler piece, as per plan C. The trestletree should be grooved with an 1/8S´ (3.2mm) diameter round file, 1/16S´ (1.6mm) deep to form a rest for the topmast fids (this stops that mast rotating). Adjust the height accurately, glue and pin to the masts. You can now paint these black. Wipe off any paint that gets on the masts.

1. Lower caps: these are pre-cut from 1/2S´ (12.7mm) birch. Paint black and glue mainmast only with wood glue, cross pin with 3/32S´ (2.4mm) brass rod as shown on plan C (note the hook for attaching the top of the antenna to). The foremast cap must be affixed after the shrouds and stay have been put around its head.

2. Bowsprit cap: this is pre-cut from 1/2S´ (12.7mm) birch. Paint and assemble onto bowsprit as with above. Drill 1/8S´ (3.2mm) hole 1/2S´ (12.7mm) deep, through bottom of cap into bowsprit for dolphin striker. Cut 1/8S´ (3.2mm) brass rod to length for dolphin striker. Hammer flat small area at distal end and drill with 1/16S´ (1.6mm) drill for martingale stay. Shape, if you desire, with a file. Deburr edges of hole and use wood glue to glue striker into bowsprit cap, as shown on plan C.

1. Topmasts: drill as shown in plan C. They should be coated with a clear sealer. Cut and bend the 3/32S´ (2.4mm) brass rod pieces for the yard trusses and glue into the masts using isocyanacrylate. Cut the topmast fids from 1/8S´ (3.2mm) brass rod. Emplace the supplied polypropylene lower truss stop pieces. Emplace the masts and fids and drill the lower caps through the center of the topmasts for 3/32S´ (2.4mm) brass pins. Cut the pins and press in flush. Remember, the foremast assembly has to wait for the shrouds and stay.

2. Jibboom: drill as shown in plan C. Glue the CNC cut jibboom saddle onto the bowsprit, and slide the jibboom into place. Drill through the center of the jibboom and saddle, 3/4S´ (19mm) deep, cut an 1/8S´ (3.2mm) piece of wood dowel and use to pin. The jibboom is not glued. The saddle pin is sacrificial and will allow the jibboom to absorb a large frontal impact without breaking, only requiring a new saddle pin (so make a couple of spares).

1. Topmast crosstrees: these are both the same, glued up around the topmasts, using wood glue from the two 1/4S´ (6.4mm) trestletrees, the three birch crosstrees and the 5/32S´ (4mm) black ABS or marine ply filler piece. The trestletrees should be grooved with an 3/32S´ (2.4mm) diameter round file, 3/64S´ (1.2mm) deep to form a rest for the topgallant mast fids. Once assembled paint black, wiping excess paint off the mast.

2. Topmast caps: these are both the same, pre-cut from 3/8S´ (9.5mm) birch. Paint black and glue on with wood glue. Pin to topmasts with cut 3/32S´ (2.4mm) brass rod.

Drill both for pins & etc as shown in plan C and emplace (isocyanacrylate) the stops, cut from 3/32S´ (2.4mm) brass rod. Cut the yard trusses, bend and glue in with isocyanacrylate. Glue the trucks on, after the masts are sealed, with a minimal amount of 5-minute epoxy. Slide into the topmast caps and crosstrees, emplace the fids (cut from 1/8S´ (3.2mm) brass rod), and glue and pin with cut 3/32S´ (2.4mm) brass rod.

1. Cross drill holes as shown on plan C. Paint black; cut the black latex tubing to length and slide on. Attach to the mainmast hinge tongue fitting.

2. ii) There are two gaff booms, one for the reefed driver, one for the full. Drill and emplace hardware as shown on plan C. Make up the two sets of gaff halyards by seizing both ends of the line as described below in ‹shroudsS´, and leave them attached to the booms.

1. Shrouds are made in pairs, looping over the head of the mast, which they are seized around, then running down to the deadeyes, which they are also seized around. So the first starboard mainmast shroud forms a pair with the second starboard mainmast shroud. Shrouds are tensioned by the lanyards running between the upper and lower deadeyes. They are formed into an integrated whole on each side of each mast by being connected with a ladder work of ratline that is glued and knotted to each shroud. The parallelism, correct tension and straightness of these ratlines is a large feature in the appearance of the ships. Making them will be tedious, so just do one at the time and move to other tasks.

   1. Shrouds: Take a piece of shroud cable, cut it long enough to wrap around your mast and down to two adjacent deadeyes, and seize it tight around the masthead and the deadeyes. You can attach the deadeyes at the right height from the channels with a piece of line. To seize line, cut the correct diameter (it should be the closest to a snug fit) adhesive-lined heat-shrink tube to a length representative of 3 times (it is 6 times (+/-) for all but the shrouds) its finished diameter. (Do a couple of practice pieces first). Slide it over the two ends and pull the ends tight, clamping beyond the seizing with an alligator clip or clothes‰ pin. Heat the shrink-tubing evenly with the cooler part of an electric soldering iron, until it shrinks down tightly and smoothly. Put a drop of isocyanacrylate in each end and accelerate. Accelerating isocyanacrylate should be done with the tiniest whiff of mist from the spray bottle; more will crystallize and weaken it. Trim off the excess shroud and color the white core black with permanent-ink marker pen. Complete the other side, then the next pair, alternately port and starboard.

   2. Ratlines: Cut the required number of ratlines. Knot them, using half-knots as shown, around the foremost shroud at the correct spacings, and glue with a tiny drop of isocyanacrylate. Half-knot each ratline around each shroud in turn, without worrying too much about neatness yet. Adjust the knots and spacing until all is perfect. Glue each knot with a tiny drop of isocyanacrylate. Trim the ends of the ratlines close.

   3. Deadeyes and chains: Make up the required number of deadeye lanyards (there are 2 sizes of lanyard - keep them distinct), knot one end with a half knot and cut to length. Remember, you‰ll need a knot in the other end too, so what we do is mark the length from the first knot then cut an inch (25mm) past it. After threading, tie the second knot so it pulls down to this mark, then cut off the extra. Thread between the upper (seized into your shrouds) and the lower (held by your chains) deadeyes as shown in the attached sketch. Once you have both starboard and port sets made up interleave the mast loops over the head of the mast, first passing the loops up from below, through the lubbers‰ hole. Now pull the chain plates through the correct slots in the channels, and pulling the lower deadeyes tight against the channels, ensure the line of the plates is continuous with the line of the shroud it comes from and mark where the hole needs to be drilled on the wale for the attachment bolts. When all holes are marked, drill them and set the chains in and glue the bolts.

2. The upper shrouds:

   Just the same as the lower, with the exception of the chains. The lower deadeyes, once attached to the lanyards, are complete. Hook them into the correct slot on the tops. No futtock shrouds are designed into the model.

3. The stays:

   See plan E. Seize both ends, the top around the mast heads, to the lengths determined by your model (it is not too critical; you‰ll be able to adjust final length with the cable ties). Attach the lower ends to the points as shown. The mainstay and forestay both use large cable ties, the remainder use small. The lower stays do not pass through the oval holes in the platforms of the tops (which are, in real life, for the yard slings) but trough the forward end of the lubbers' hole.

4. The backstays:

   See plan D. Seize both ends, the top around the mast heads, to the lengths determined by your model (as above, it is not too critical). Attach the lower ends to the backstay chains which are then threaded through the aft holes in the channels; do not tension yet. Make sure they are lined up with the backstay above them and their upper loops rest against the channel (you will have to file out these holes a little to accommodate the return piece of the brass loop). Mark the points to drill the attachment bolts. Drill all holes, then glue in the bolts; tension the backstays with the cable ties.

Now, we rig the mainyard without any sail. If you want to attach a furled sail to it (which would be equally correct), there is enough sail material. Drill the yard and attach hardware as shown on plan C.
Furled sails are made with unprinted material. The material needs to be the same breadth as the head of a full sail and about the same depth. You can add material (nylon) when rolling up the sail, since in real life the actual thickness of the canvas would be proportionately greater than we use at scale. Glue (isocyanacrylate) the top edge to the yard. Fold the sail as illustrated in Plan D. Tie the furled sail onto the bottom or front of the yard with neatly trimmed knots in 6 evenly spaced places, using .028S´ (.7mm) manila running rigging line. On topsail and topgallant yards only, knot (and glue this knot, as with all fixed knots, with isocyanacrylate) a length of the same manila rigging line onto the lower yardarm eyes. Seize the lower end to form a loop, making sure the overall length is the correct spacing to reach the clew eyes on the yard below once you have attached a rubber band and rigging hook. Note: the yards change position when the sails are furled and rest on the lowered yard trusses.

1. The foreyard and the forecourse:

   The ss spring wire is pre-bent for you but not cut to length. Once you have the holes etc. in the foreyard, slip the wire in, mark and cut to length using the sail outline as a guide. Cut out the additional piece of sail cloth for the foot seam (Plan D). To cut sail material see below under ‹loose sailsS´. Sew this piece to the flap at the foot of the sail so that the seam line is on the sail edge and the hem is inside. Sew the two sides of the sail, making a stitch line parallel to the printed seam lines, even on top of the appropriate one, if possible. Slide the wire though the two edge seam sleeves, fold the foot piece over and sew parallel to the foot. Tuck the corners in neatly and sew down. Add the styrene strips (as below) and assemble the sail to the yard. Make a small hole in the center of the foot of this sail, just above the wire; we use a soldering iron so that the edges seal. Thread a rubber band through this and hook it to the brass hook on the aft side of the fore raised deck.

2. The topsails and their yards:

   Both topsail yards need to be made with furled and loose sails. Drill and emplace hardware in the four yards as shown on plan C. Attach the furled sails as described above in ‹the mainyardS´.
   Loose sails should be cut out of the supplied material using a ‹hot-knifeS´, or cut with sharp scissors and then edge-sealed using the cooler part of a soldering iron. This heat sealing is important as it stops the material from fraying. Note that the sails have an extra ‹flapS´ at their heads. Cut the supplied styrene strips to the same length as the head strips and glue them to them, using isocyanacrylate, without creating lumps. Insert the head strips and sail into the slit in the bottom of the yard; make sure they are centered. The side screened with the ink showing should be forward. They are necessarily a tight fit; be patient. Glue in with small amounts of isocyanacrylate. Add the tabling as shown in plan D. Tabling is adhesive backed. Cut to size and check fit with the silk-screened lines first, then remove backing and stick onto the aft side of the sail, using pressure. Pierce the sails at their clews as shown, using either an 1/8S´ (3.2mm) hole punch (that‰s what we use), or a soldering iron (practise). Attach small rubber bands into the clews and then rigging hooks to them. See attached drawings.

3. The topgallants and their yards:

   As for the topsails

4. The driver sails and booms:

   You have made the two driver gaff booms, one for the full sail and one for the double-reefed sail. Cut the sails as above. Glue the heads of the sails into these booms as with the square sails, but here the sail comes flush with the untapered end. The clew and tack both get rubber bands and to these are attached brass rigging hooks. Attach the full one to the rigging eye on the mainmast, its halyards to the cap fitting and its clew hooks to the driver boom.

5. The jib:

   Sew the luff (leading edge) add the tabling, pierce for the clew and add the rubber band and rigging hook. Slide the sail onto the jibstay and tie to the jibboom using a sewing needle and manila-colored sewing thread to form a loop through the doubled part of the sail and around the boom.

6. The ensigns and Pennant:

   The ensigns should be cut out like the sails, but leave a 3/8S´ (9.5mm) wide rectangle the length of the hoist edge of the flag. Fold this in half and sew along the edge of the flag field. This now makes the header for the flag through which the halyard is rove and/or clipped to. The halyard runs between the halyard eye at the aft end of the gaff boom and the inboard clew eye on the driver boom. The pennant is cut from the material provided (see plan E) and the hoist folded over and taped with clear tape to make a tight fit around the main topgallant pole head under the truck. It is used for gaging wind direction.

   Now starting at the bottom, attach the yards and sails to the masts. The yards get polypropylene stops and/or rests on their trusses to stop them sliding up.

All running rigging is made up of .028S´ (.7mm) manila line. The three large servos have to be screwed down to their respective blocks after their arms are attached to the ‹hornsS´ that are already on. The rudder servo is screwed down first and needs the circular horn that comes attached changed to the larger ‹XS´ horn. You should replace all the center screws that hold the horns on to the splined hub with the ss screws provided. The brace and sheet arms are attached with 2 bolts (from the bottom up) secured with washers and nuts as shown in plan A. The rudder servo arm is attached with 4 ss sheet metal screws

The braces are seized to the brace eyes on the yard with a small loop. The brace eyes should not be completely closed so that you can remove the braces when you send down the yards. The braces are port and starboard for the mainyard and foreyard. These yards are connected to the yards above them by the clews of the sails above or by clew lines for furled sails, so that when they turn, the yards (and sails) above turn. The braces lead from the brace eye on the yard, through the brace guide, down the back of the mast (through the upper gaff eye on the main, and through an eye in a similar place on the fore), through the polypro brace fairleads in the deck aft of the mast, through the copper tubing guides and so to the rigging adjusters on the end of each servo arm.
The lower end of the brace is knotted and glued (after final adjustment) to the rigging adjuster. These adjusters are designed to work thus: tie the line to one end hole; place the middle of both adjusters on their bolts which run through the end holes on the correct servo arm; adjust the knots so both the yard controlled and the servo arm are athwartships simultaneously. Later adjustment is made by moving the adjuster bolt to another hole.

1. The fore and aft sheets:

   The jib sheet runs from the jib clew through a rigging eye on the upper side of the bowsprit, through the rigging eye on the forward side of the foremast, down through the polypro fairlead and copper tubing guide, through the 2 eyes on the forward rigging block and so to the rigging adjuster. A quarter (7gm) or 3/8 ounce (10.6gm) fishing weight is hooked onto this line between the 2 eyes under the rigging block. This is to keep the sheet from snagging things when it is let out but there is no wind on the sail.
   The driver sheet runs from the clew eye on the underside of the boom through the raised deck polypro fairlead through the 2 eyes on the aft rigging block (a fishing weight is required here too) and so to the rigging adjuster on the starboard side of the sheet servo.

2. The tiller ropes:

   Port and starboard, these start knotted to a 1/16S´ (1.6mm) pin in the aft end, far side, of the tiller quadrant, then leading around the quadrant face to go to the aftmost leading eye (which you position at the same height as the quadrant) on the bulwark. They then lead through the eyes on the deck to the side of the tiller, along the deck to athwartships of the mainmast, where they go through the polypro fairleads and copper guide tubes to the rudder servo quadrant. They lead around the face of this to the far side, where they come through the large pre-drilled holes to be tied around a 1/16S´ (1.6mm) pin which is adjusted by moving it to an appropriate hole in the row.

3. Set up of the Radio Control:

   See the wiring diagram on plan E. The 815BB servos need to be directly wired through the ‹YS´ patch cords to the battery as well as the receiver. You will need the extension cords provided to reach the battery from one side of these ‹YS´ cords. The 300BB servo can be plugged directly into the receiver.
   The receiver should have BEC (battery eliminator circuitry) so that it does not require a separate battery. We use JR or Futaba receivers; they are often unavailable as 4 channel so we use 6. We do not use the switches that come with the radio sets, but rather unplug the wire connection to the battery. If you would like to install a switch, choose one for the marine environment and install it between the positive leads and the battery positive terminal as shown, possibly sticking through the deck, but at least high up in the between-decks.
   Our HiTec servos come equipped with JR/Airtronics ‹ZS´ or Futaba‹JS´ connectors. The ‹ZS´s plug into ‹JS´ connectors once the male ‹JS´s have had their little bump removed, but polarity (yellow wire lines up with yellow wire etc.) has to be assured visually with ‹ZS´s.
   All connections should be fastened (we use Velcro) to the underside of the deck, as should the receiver. Solder joints should be shrink tube protected. The receiver antenna should be run up through a polypro fairlead in the deck (seal the hole with silicone sealant) just afore the mainmast and the end fastened to an eye in the main cap with a rubber band.
   We remove the return springs from our transmitter gimbals, except for the rudder, so that the control sticks stay where they are put. The 7 amp hour lead-acid batteries last us between 4 and 12 hours of sailing, but we always take the battery out after a sail and recharge. Once the radio is working properly, make sure the servo arms are athwartships and the rudder servo plate is symmetrical around the fore & aft centerline of the ship when the joysticks are in the neutral (centered) position. This can be adjusted by removing the central arm screw, lifting the arm off its splines and putting it back on in the correct position.
   Lastly, we gather all the cables and receiver and slip them into a small re-sealable plastic bag, closing the top as much as we can, then seal it with duct tape and tape it to the side of the sheet servo. We take extra precautions because we sail mainly in saltwater.

Coat the whole axle (it is not ss) with some durable water-repellant material (we use vaseline) and set the axles down on scrap paper or cardboard. Insert cotter pins in the two innermost holes, slide a large ss washer onto each end and then place the cart sides onto the axles. See attached sketch for the correct holes to use. Knock the three cart cross-beams into their triangular holes with light taps of a hammer. Ensure that they seat properly (the sound of tapping them becomes solid). Insert the handle into the sides and attach with the four Phillips head 1/4-20 machine screws and nuts 9they are not ss). Attach the two cradle pieces with 6 3/8-16 ss bolts and nuts. They go on the outside of the side pieces. Push the bolts through from the outside. Put a large ss washer on each end of the axle, slide the wheels on (protruding hub inside), then another washer, then two ss cotter pins through the axles to hold the wheels, bending the long arm to retain them. Lastly press the two black ABS cradle cross pieces into their interlocks on the cradles (slot goes to slot).

Decommissioning in the launching cart:

The ship will sail marginally above her waterline, however, you can adjust this balance by adding weight (we use lead shot in re-sealable bags).
The braces must move the yards until they press against the first shroud. The rudder must move at least 30Á from centerline in each direction. The fore and aft sails are the last thing you should worry about adjusting when you are learning to control her with your radio. The rudder is the most critical. You will most often be sailing as close to the wind as you can when you begin, so as not to lose sea-room. Close-hauled like this you need to keep the two braces all the way in on the lee side. On our radios we use the left stick right-left for the rudder, up-down for the main brace, right stick right-left for the sheets, up-down for the fore brace.